Pattern Overview

Inspired by the gorgeous spring blooms colorway, I wanted to create a breezy and comfortable spring cardi that would be perfect for tossing on for the unpredictable spring temperatures and embracing the brightness of the season. Made with simple stitches, this pattern is a great way to create a fun, relaxing make that is perfect for spring and summer nights.  The easy repeats, simple seam construction, and customizable nature of the panels make this a great cardi for everyone.

Construction/customization notes

This pattern is written to make you the custom designer of your own perfect spring cardi. The panels are all completely customizable to your ideal dimensions based on how you want the piece to fit. There is complete freedom to change the length and the width of the body panels, as well as the sleeves, and even the finishing touches (like the collar and the bottom edging). The only thing you have to do is make sure that you always have an ODD number of stitches so that the repeat will line up correctly at the end of each row. 

If you are going to change the dimensions of the piece, just remember that all changes should be mirrored in all panels. For example, if you make the first front panel wider, make sure you make the second front panel the same width. Same goes for changing the size of the armhole, or adding decreases to the sleeves – make sure things match! 

I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so post using #perennialbreezecardi and tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! Obviously the yarn quantity suggested below is just an estimate based on how much yarn I used for a couple of dimensions I used, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn. 

Supplies Needed

• 6.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to create a loose and stretchy fabric) 
• Approximately 700 yards of DK (weight 3) yarn to make a sweater that fits within the dimensions of a “large” from the CYC size chart
• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 

Stitches (*US Terms*)

• Chain stitch (Ch) 
• Single crochet (SC)
• Half double crochet (HDC)
• Foundation half double crochet (FHDC)
• Half double crochet 2 together (HDC2tog)
• Single crochet (SC)
• Crab stitch/reverse single crochet (this is a special stitch that is worked from left to right, with the same yarn over pattern as a normal single crochet stitch)

Pattern Instructions: 

NOTE: TURNING CHAIN DOES NOT COUNT AS A STITCH

Back panel:

Foundation: FHDC an odd number of stitches to your desired back panel width. (For example, I did 71 stitches)

row 1: 1 hdc in each stitch 

row 2: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next stitch; repeat to end

row 3: 1 hdc in each space or stitch

repeat for 39 total rows – ending with row 39 as a solid hdc row, or to desired length (I wanted a slightly cropped length, just be sure that the final row is a row of hdc in each stitch or space). 

Front Panel

row 1: 1 hdc in first stitch, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next, repeat to the desired width being sure to end on an hdc stitch. turn (I did 27 stitches)

row 2: 1 hdc in each stitch (Again, 27 stitches or the same number as your first row) 

Alternate rows 1 and 2 for 39 rows (or the same number of rows that you completed for the back panel before beginning the first front panel. 

Break yarn at the end of the first front panel. Rejoin at the opposite “shoulder edge” of the back panel, and repeat the steps to create a second front panel.

Sleeves

To create your sleeves, take the circumference of your upper arm (approximately where the drop shoulder will fall) and add 1 inch for a close-fitting sleeve or 2+ for a loose-fitting sleeve. Then mark the center line of the shoulder (where the transition to the “front panel” section happens) with a stitch marker. Then,  using a measuring tape, measure the length of the circumference of your arm (ie 12 inches) with the center point at the center stitch marker (ie 6 inches on either side of the center stitch marker) and mark it with additional stitch markers on each side. There should now be three stitch markers, equally spaced at the “shoulder seam” and equal points on the front and back panels. I recommend using an additional stitch marker to secure the panel at the “sleeve bottom” (the 2 end stitch markers) to test fit the sleeve opening. If it’s not your desired fit, simply move the end stitch markers closer together or farther apart for a tighter or looser sleeve, respectively. 

Then, being sure to work loosely to accommodate stretching of the front and back panel, join yarn at one of the end stitch markers and begin working into the row ends with a solid row of hdc stitches (no skips or chain spaces). Make sure you have an odd number of stitches. (Note: this can be any odd number of stitches to accommodate your arm size and desired fit) 

row 1: Base number of stitches (for examples, I did 53 hdc stitches)

row 2: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 3: decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 spaces

row 4: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 5:decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 spaces

row 6: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 7: decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 spaces

row 8:1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 9: decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 spaces

row 10: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 11: 1 hdc in each stitch or ch-1 space

row 12: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 13: decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 space

row 14: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 15: decrease by 2 stitches this row. 1 hdc in the first stitch, hdc in the next stitch or ch-1 space, then hdc2tog, hdc to the last 5 stitches of the row, hdc2tog, hdc in remaining stitches or ch-1 space

row 16: 1 hdc in first, ch 1 sk 1, hdc in next. repeat to end

row 17: 1 hdc in each stitch or ch-1 space

row 18: 1 hdc in each stitch 

Fold the piece in half, with the front panel on top of the back panel, and the sleeve in half, sticking out the side (in sort of a t shape). Join at the cuff with a slip stitch, and work down the sleeve and side seam with your preferred joining method.

Repeat on the other side to create the other sleeve. Ensure that you are working with the same number of initial stitches and following the same decrease pattern as you did for the first sleeve to create the desired taper of your sleeve. 

Collar and Finishing

After completing both sleeves and seaming, break yarn. 

Rejoin at the bottom corner of the right front panel, chain 2, then loosely and evenly hdc around the entire inside of the front panels and across the back of the “neck” section of the back panel. Then, continuing around the bottom edge, place 1 hdc in each of the hdc stitches of the front panel bottom edge, the bottom edge of the back panel and the other front panel. Then working back in the front panel collar section, place 1 hdc in each stitch of the “collar” edge. At the bottom of the second front panel, ch 1 and then reverse sc/crab  stitch around to the other bottom corner) or just sc if you want a smooth edge rather than a decorative edge). 

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #cozybearcardi. 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks!