Pattern Overview
The Downy Haze cardi is a great beginner project for those who want to try making their first garment but are intimidated by the usual tiny stitches and tinier yarn, and it uses readily available and inexpensive yarn! Designed to be cozy and oversized, this cardigan works up like a dream and uses basic stitches to create a beautiful texture and a nice drape. It is a “drop shoulder” design, which means that some of the width of the body panels creates part of the sleeve due to the way it is folded and seamed together. This cardigan is also designed to have an oversized fit, with 4-6 inches of positive ease for the way I am wearing it.
It is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up or adjust the sizes of individual panels. I’ve written this pattern to be a recipe-style cardigan that allows you to be the designer of your own perfectly customized cardigan. I have recommendations for stitch counts for other sizes, and it is noted within the pattern where you’ll want to make changes to suit your body shape and desired fit.
I made it using a variegated yarn, but you could also use a single color or less fuzzy yarn for a different look. The large hook creates a really drapey finished product that is super quick and easy to work up, and will have you wrapped up in cozy goodness in no time!
Construction and Customization Notes
The sweater is constructed in four segments (the two body panels, and two sleeves). The body panels are worked up with an additional few rows added at the end to account for the back panel, and then edging is added to complete the look after seaming the panels together. This technique makes the pattern easily customizable and super beginner-friendly.
I’ve included some ideas here for customizing this pattern to your body and ideal fit. It is easy to size up or down as a whole or to adjust the individual panel sizes based on where you want the changes. You can adjust the length of the sweater by working additional or fewer stitches in the foundation row, or by adding additional rows of edging. You can also add additional increases if you want to change the sleeve shaping. If you would like to keep the front opening the same but widen the back of the body, you can just add additional rows when you get to the back-width adjustment rows.
I would check the fit of the sleeves as you work to make sure they will accommodate the fit you want for your arms! It is easy to add a few more increases at the end (or throughout the sleeve rows) and get the perfect fit for your unique arms!
If you choose to lengthen any of the panels or make them wider, you will need more yarn. This pattern is designed to be more custom-fit to you with a recipe-style pattern so the yardage recommendations are based on the pattern as pictured (which is what I would consider a medium/large based on CYC sizing charts) has finished measurements of approximately:
- Back width – 22 inches
- Body length (shoulder to hem) – 28 inches
- Sleeves (sleeve panels before drop shoulder): 12.5 inches (these become full length with the drop shoulder after seaming)
PLEASE NOTE — THE STITCH COUNTS FOR THE SIZES BELOW ARE ESTIMATES AND SHOULD BE USED AS GUIDELINES FOR DETERMINING YOUR IDEAL FIT BASED ON PERSONAL PREFERENCE AND YOUR INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENTS.
Supplies Needed
- 8 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge)
- Sizes XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X
- Approximately 860, 1060, 1500, 1800 total yards of bulky weight yarn (weight 5) – I used Caron Latte Cakes yarn.
- If you are using Caron Latte Cakes, you’ll need approximately 2, 2, 3, 4 total balls.
- Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)
Stitches (*US Terms*)
- Chain stitch (Ch)
- Single crochet (SC)
- Single crochet back loop only (SC BLO)
- Half Double crochet (HDC)
- Double crochet back loop only (DC BLO)
- Double crochet front loop only (DC FLO)
- *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed
Gauge/Notes
Gauge:
Body: alternating half double crochet and double crochet back loop only (every other row) stitch: 9 stitches x 9 rows = 4 inches
It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your sweater will fit.
Notes:
- Any changes to length need to be done in the foundation row.
- Changes to width can be done in either the main row count (before the back panel adjustment for a slimmer or wider front panel) or in the back panel adjustment section if you want the front panel section to remain the same width as noted
Pattern Instructions
Body panel (RIGHT):
Body:
Foundation: FDC 118, 120, 122, 124 (or desired number for preferred length (keep in mind that this will be folded in half so that the stitches run perpendicular to the ground)) You can also use a foundation chain and do a row of double crochet in place of the FDC, just be sure to add the additional 2 stitches for a turning chain.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch
Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch, turn
Row 5 – 15, 17, 19, 21: Repeat rows 3 & 4 (Repeat this for as many or as few rows as desired to create your ideal front panel width – keeping in mind that the back panel will be extended by at least 1 inch on each side. Make sure you end with an HDC row regardless of how many rows you work)
Back width adjustment:
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in next 57, 58, 59, 60 stitches (or however many stitches is half of the total number of stitches in each row minus 2 (so 120 divided by 2 is 60, and then subtract 2 stitches is 58)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch
FOR ADDITIONAL WIDTH, JUST REPEAT THIS ALTERNATING ROW PATTERN TO DESIRED WIDTH. I would suggest no more than 5-6 rows of back panel adjustment, because this just needs to be from your spine to the our edge of your neck (the other panel will also have this adjustment, so any width you add here will be doubled in the left panel)
Cut yarn and tie off after you are happy with the adjustment.
Body panel (LEFT):
In order to make sure the texture is correct on the left side of the sweater, this panel has a different back adjustment section. This ensures that the texture will be the same and the panels will line up correctly.
Body:
Foundation: FDC 118, 120, 122, 124 (or desired number for preferred length (keep in mind that this will be folded in half so that the stitches run perpendicular to the ground)) You can also use a foundation chain and do a row of double crochet in place of the FDC, just be sure to add the additional 2 stitches for a turning chain.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch
Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch, turn
Row 5 – 15, 17, 19, 21: Repeat rows 3 & 4 (Repeat this for as many or as few rows as desired to create your ideal front panel width – keeping in mind that the back panel will be extended by at least 1 inch on each side. Make sure you end with an HDC row regardless of how many rows you work)
Back width adjustment:
Cut yarn and tie off. Rejoin yarn on the opposite end of the row you just completed.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DCFLO in next 57, 58, 59, 60 stitches (just make sure this is the same number of stitches as the adjustment on the RIGHT body panel)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 DCFLO in each stitch
IF YOU MADE ADDITIONAL WIDTH CHANGES IN THE RIGHT PANEL, MATCH THEM HERE.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Sleeve panel (Make two):
Ribbing :
Foundation: Ch 7, turn
Row 1: 1 SC in 2nd chain from hook and 1 SC in each chain down the row, turn (6 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch, turn,
Row 3 – 20, 22, 24, 26: Repeat row 2 to row count or desired length
Main Portion: *note* there is an increase in the second and third rows of the body portion of each sleeve, as well as in the second to last row.
Row 1: Ch 2, turn ribbing so you are working down the length of it. Evenly place 20, 22, 24, 26 single crochet stitches down the length of the ribbing
Row 2: Ch 2, work 1 DC in the first 2 stitches, then 2 DC in the 3rd stitch, then DC in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 DC in the next, DC in next 7, 9, 11, 13 stitches, *2 DC in the next stitch, DC in each of the next 2 stitches*, repeat *…* to end, turn (You can add additional increase rows here to get to your desired sleeve fit)
Row 3: Ch 1, HDC in the first stitch, 2 HDC in the next stitch, *HDC in the next stitch, 2 HDC in the next*, repeat *…* to end of row, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DC BLO in each stitch, turn
Row 5: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 6 – 26: Repeat rows 4 & 5 (You can have any number of repeats here, as long as you end on a DCBLO row)
Row 27: Ch 1, HDC in first stitch, 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC in next 11, 13, 15, 17 stitches 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC 5, 7, 9, 11 stitches, 2HDC in next stitch, HDC in next 11, 13, 15, 17 stitches, 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC in last stitch, turn. (This row is a bit tricky – make sure the increases are relatively evenly spaced through the total number of sleeve stitches, it may be different than the suggested count here, which is totally fine, as long as you space it evenly throughout the row)
Row 28: Ch 2, 1 DC BLO in each stitch.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Seaming and finishing:
For construction of the sweater, it’s easiest to lay out the body panels with the right sides facing up. Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the two body panels together at the back panel adjustment sections (they should line up with the same stitch counts). It is super important that you match the right sides (the sides with the visible “v”s are the “right sides” in this case). I personally prefer a mattress stitch, but you could use any seaming method you prefer like the whip stitch, or zig-zag stitch.
After sewing the body panels together, lay out the new “U” shaped sweater body flat, with the outside/right side facing up. Take the first sleeve, and lay it next to the outer edge of the body panel. Make sure to line up the center of the sleeve (fold in half or count to find the middle) and the shoulder (2 stitches above the back panel adjustment section). Then use the same stitching method to create a nice flat seam. Repeat this with the other sleeve. Then fold it back down to look like the sweater shape, again with everything aligned together, and seam the length of the sleeve starting at the bottom of the wrist ribbing and stitching to the side seam. After seaming the sleeve, move down the side seam to the waist ribbing and tie off. Repeat this on the other side!
After all seaming is completed, move to “collar” section.
Collar:
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the front right panel (right side facing). Work around entire inner portion of cardigan front panels (and stitch(es) on the back panel that in the space between where the front panels are joined) to the other bottom corner of the front left panel.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DCBLO in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling. Turn at the end of the row.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 HDC BLO in each stitch around, turn
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 HDC FLO in each stitch around, turn
If you want a wider collar, repeat rows 3 and 4 to desired width (being sure to alternate BLO and FLO stitches in each row).
Cut yarn, tie off, and move to “bottom edging”
Bottom edging:
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the front left panel (right side facing). Work around bottom edge of the cardigan (working into the row ends of the main panels)
Row 1: Ch 1, evenly place SC stitches in the row ends. t is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that allows adequate stretch in the body of the sweater)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 HDC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 HDC BLO in each stitch around, turn
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 HDC FLO in each stitch around, turn
Repeat alternating rows here to add additional length to the edging as desired.
Weave in all of your ends, and you’re good to go!
If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #downyhazecardi!
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