Pattern Overview
Inspired by the faux-shearling and sherpa jackets and sweaters that dominate the winter clothing racks, I wanted to create a cardigan that is as soft as it is cozy and warm. With a big collar and a relaxed fit, this cardi is the perfect winter layer to snuggle up in. Made with simple stitches, this pattern is a great way to use the texture of the yarn to your advantage and create a fun, relaxing make! The easy repeats, mostly seamless construction, and customizable nature of the panels make this a great cardi for everyone.
The pattern will be available here on the blog for free forever, but you can purchase the AD-FREE, COLOR-CODED by size, downloadable/print-friendly PDF of this pattern from Ravelry for just $3.50.
Construction/customization notes
This pattern is constructed a bit differently from many cardigans. It is worked in long rows that will run vertically in the finished piece – basically, you are working the length of your cardigan in stitches, and the width is created by the rows added. Of course, you will add about an inch to the finished length when you add the edging, but remember that you won’t be able to do much to modify the length after you determine the length of your foundation row.
If you are going to change the dimensions of the piece, just remember that all changes should be mirrored in all panels. For example, if you make the first front panel wider, make sure you make the second front panel the same width. Same goes for changing the size of the armhole, or adding decreases to the sleeves – make sure things match!
This pattern is written for sizes S – 4X, but is easily customizable to fit any size. You can add (or remove) any number of stitches from the foundation row to change the length of the finished cardi. You can also add rows to the front and back panels, as well as additional rows to the collar portion to create your perfect fit!
I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so post using #cozybearcardi and tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! Obviously the yarn quantity suggested below is for the pattern as written, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn.
Supplies Needed
- 8 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge) (for body)
- 6 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge) (for sleeve cuffs)
- Approx. 960; 975; 1075; 1175; 1200; 1300; 1320 yards Bulky/weight 5 yarn (to get the look I was going for with this pattern, I used Lion Brand Yarn Baby Soft Boucle Yarn. Another weight 5 yarn will work for this pattern, but it is not going to give you the same look unless it is a similarly fuzzy yarn. You could use a faux fur yarn or maybe even a velvet yarn to get a great texture as well)
- In Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle you’ll need approximately 8; 8; 9; 10; 10; 11; 11
- Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)
Stitches (*US Terms*)
- stitches used, ch, slip? SC, HDC, FHDC, HDC2tog, DC, FPDC, BPDCDouble crochet (dc)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Chain stitch (Ch)
- Single crochet (SC)
- Half double crochet (HDC)
- Double crochet (DC)
- Foundation half double crochet (FHDC)
- Half double crochet 2 together (HDC2tog)
- Front post double crochet (FPDC)
- Back post double crochet (BPDC)
- Stitches (sts)
- Repeat stitches/steps in between * * as noted (*…*)
Gauge/Dimensions
Gauge: 9 stitches x 10 rows (half double crochets) = 4 inches
Sizes: S; M; L; XL; 2X; 3X; 4X
Finished back width in inches (by size): 14.5; 15; 16.5; 17.5; 18; 18.5; 19
Finished back length in inches (by size): 23.5; 24; 24.5; 25; 25.5; 26; 26.5
Pattern Instructions:
NOTE: TURNING CHAIN COUNTS AS A STITCH
Front panel 1:
Foundation: FHDC to appropriate length (54; 55; 56; 57; 58; 59; 60)
Row 1: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch (including top of turning chain)
Row 2 – 11; 12; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch down the row.
This is the arm hole and underarm portion of the first front panel. Row counts begin at 1 again for clarity, the chain and skipped stitches are the first row of the armhole section.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 SC, loosely chain (18; 20; 21; 22; 23; 24; 25), skip (17; 19; 20; 21; 22; 23; 24) stitches, HDC into next stitch, 1 HDC in each stitch to end, turn
Row 2: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to 1 before armhole chain, SC in last stitch before armhole chain, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, SC in SC from previous row, HDC in each remaining stitch back to bottom hem, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to armhole chain (including SC from previous row) HDC into the HDC that joined armhole chain, then HDC into each of the armhole chain stitches, HDC into last stitch, turn
Back panel:
Row 1: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch down row, turn
Repeat for 28; 29; 32; 34; 35; 36; 37 rows (until back panel is the correct width for desired size)
Make sure that your last row ends at the “top” of the panel, so that the next row will be starting at the same side as the other armhole.
This is a repeat of the other arm hole and underarm portion of the first front panel. Row counts begin at 1 again for clarity, the chain and skipped stitches are the first row of the armhole section.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 SC, loosely chain (18; 20; 21; 22; 23; 24; 25), skip (17; 19; 20; 21; 22; 23; 24) stitches, HDC into next stitch, 1 HDC in each stitch to end, turn
Row 2: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to 1 before armhole chain, SC in last stitch before armhole chain, turn
Row 3: Ch 1, SC in SC from previous row, HDC in each remaining stitch back to bottom hem, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to armhole chain (including SC from previous row) HDC into the HDC that joined armhole chain, then HDC into each of the armhole chain stitches, HDC into last stitch, turn
Front panel 2:
Row 1: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch down the row, turn
Row 2 – 11; 12; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch down the row. Break yarn and tie off.
Shoulder seam join:
Lay piece flat, using the armhole as the guide, fold the front panel onto the back panel, and use whatever stitch you prefer to sew the two top edges together. Repeat on the other side. It will initially seem like the front panels don’t offer enough coverage in the front, but this is where the collar comes in to widen the front panel and make the sweater feel extra cozy.
Collar/front extension:
Flip piece so that the shoulder seams are on the “inside” and attach yarn at the bottom corner. The collar and front extensions are worked initially all the way around the inner edge of the cardigan. Then a couple of short rows are added to each front panel before the collar is worked all the way around again – because of the construction, the short sections are not mirror directions, but they create a mirrored final result.
Row 1: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch up the front panel, across the back (evenly place 1 stitch per row space), and back down each stitch of the other front panel.
Creating the first short section:
Row 2: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch up the front, stopping 10 stitches from the shoulder seam, 1 SC in next stitch
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first stitch, HDC in each stitch down the remainder of row to hem, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to SC from previous row, SC in that stitch, then HDC into the next stitch (toward shoulder seam), HDC in each stitch around neck and to the other bottom hem, turn.
Working the short section of the second front panel:
Row 5: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch up to 10 stitches from shoulder seam, SC in next stitch,turn
Row 6: Ch 1, skip first stitch, HDC in each stitch remaining down row, turn
Working full collar:
Row 7: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around front panel to the previous skipped stitch, HDC in previously skipped stitch, then DC in the next stitch and each stitch around the collar, DC around to the previous front extension section, HDC in the top of the SC, then DC down the row to the hem, turn
Row 8 – 9: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, turn
Row 10 – 14: Ch 3, DC in each stitch around, turn
Sleeves:
NOTE: SLEEVES ARE WORKED IN JOINED ROUNDS
Flip the piece piece inside out so shoulder seams are on the outside. Sleeves are worked with simple shaping to create a relaxed fit, and then gathered a bit by a small cuff of FPDC/BPDC ribbing (worked with the 6mm hook). I like to make my long sleeves a little longer than strictly necessary because I like a lot of sleeve coverage and the ability to kind of pull my hands back into the sleeves. Due to my height (5’8”ish), I also have pretty long arms, so I recommend trying on the sweater as you work through the sleeve rounds that are repeats from round 10 and beyond. Once you are happy with the length (whether that includes more or less repeats), proceed to the cuff shaping section.
Attach yarn in the bottom middle of the sleeve opening (fold piece at shoulder seam to determine the bottom middle). I use a slip stitch to attach yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around arm hole, join with sl st. This might be a bit hard to find on the “chain” side of the armhole, but it is do-able.
Round 2: Ch 2, HDC2tog, HDC in each stitch around except last 2, HDC2tog, join with sl st.
Round 3: Ch 2, HDC2tog, HDC in each stitch around, join with sl st
Round 4: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around except last 2, HDC2tog,join with sl st
Round 5: Ch 2, HDC2tog, hdc around, join with sl st
Round 6: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to shoulder seam, HDC 2 tog, HDC in each remaining stitch, join with sl st
Round 7: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, join with sl st
Round 8: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch to shoulder seam, HDC2tog, HDC in each stitch to end of round, join with sl st
Round 9: Ch 2, HDC2tog, HDC each stitch around except last 2, HDC2tog, join with sl st
Round 10: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, join with sl st
Round 11 – 44; 44; 45; 45; 45; 46; 46: Ch 2, HDC in each stitch around, join with sl st
Cuff shaping:
Round 1: Ch 2, HDC2tog, HDC in next 3, HDC2tog, repeat to end of round, join with sl st
switch to 6mm hook
Round 2: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around, join with sl st
Round 3: Ch 2, alternate FPDC, BPDC, around cuff, join with sl st
Round 4: Ch 2, repeat (alternating in the same FPDC, BPDC pattern as previous row), join with sl st, cut yarn and tie off!
REPEAT FOR OTHER SLEEVE
Bottom extension/edging:
This section is totally optional. I decided to add it because I like the extra shape it gives to the cardigan and the way it finishes the bottom of the sweater, but if you would rather skip it, feel free! You can also add additional rows of DC if you want to add some length, but I just added 2 rows of DC to finish off the bottom more nicely. It is all personal preference!
Instructions for my version:
Join yarn at bottom corner.
Row 1: Ch 3, place 1 DC in each row end across the piece, from the corner of the “collar/front panel extension” all the way across the back panel to the other corner of the front panel, turn. Break yarn, tie off!
Weave in ends, and you’re done!
If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #cozybearcardi.
Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks!
