August 2020

Pattern Overview

This long-line, open weave summer cardi is a great beginner project for those who want to try making their first garment! Designed to be perfect amount of coverage while still being comfortably breezy for summer  with a relaxed, slightly oversized fit. It doubles as a bathing suit coverup just as well as an easy layer to grab for errands or the office. This project works up like a dream and uses basic stitches that showcase the gorgeous texture of the yarn.

It is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up or adjust the sizes of individual panels. You can also add additional decreases or make the panels longer very easily. 

This pattern will be free here on the blog forever, but you can purchase a downloadable, ad-free PDF here. The PDF is also color-coded by size to help you keep track of stitch counts and instructions specific to the size you are making.

Construction and Customization Notes

The sweater is constructed in three segments (the back panel and two front panels). Each panel is started from the bottom edge and then worked in rows (from the bottom of the panel up) to the correct length, and then they are seamed together. This technique makes the pattern easily customizable and super beginner-friendly. 

I’ve included some ideas here for customizing this pattern to your body and ideal fit. It is easy to size up or down as a whole or to adjust the individual panel sizes based on where you want the changes. You could also lengthen it by repeating rows at any point before the decreases at the tops of the panels. 

It is currently graded for sizes XS through 2XL, with the finished size of each varying by just over 1.5 inches in each of the panel widths, or a total of just about 4 inches in total circumference difference. This piece has a lot of stretch, and is designed with about 3 inches of positive ease. These are easily customizable if you want looser panels in the front or across the back, just make sure that you add stitches in odd numbers for the ch-1 spaces to line up and look right.  If you want a size larger than 2X (or just want a looser fit) you can size up super easily by simply adding stitches at the beginning or throughout the panel(s) depending on where you want a change. 

If you choose to lengthen any of the panels or make them wider, you will need more yarn. If you do choose to substitute and use a different weight 4 yarn, just check your gauge and make sure the drape is looking good! 

Supplies Needed

• 5.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge) 
• Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X (Finished bust for each size: XS=33”, S=37”, M=42”, L=46”, XL=50”, 2X=54”) 
• Approximately 1000, 1100, 1250, 1500, 1650, 1900  total yards of worsted weight yarn (weight 4) – I used a combination of Berroco Weekend in Cornflower, and Lion Brand ZZ Twist in Gray. I had Berroco Weekend in my stash, but it has since been discontinued, so I would recommend using ZZ Twist for your whole project. ZZ Twist is an amazing worsted weight yarn with excellent drape, and it crochets amazingly, due to the unique twist.
  • If you are using ZZ Twist, you’ll need approximately 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8 total skeins. 
• If you are using 2 different colors the way that I did, you’ll need only 1 or 2 in the accent colors, but this piece could be made with a different color block – to have the sections be more evenly divided. It could also be made in a single color. 
• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 

Stitches (*US Terms*)

• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Chain stitch (Ch) 
• Single crochet (SC)
• Double crochet (DC)
• Bobble stitch – modified for pom pom edging – this is an excellent tutorial: https://marlybird.com/learn-crochet-pom-pom-boarder-photo-tutorial/
  • For my edging, I did 3 chains before and after each bobble, and skipped 3 stitches before the next single crochet. I also used half double crochet stitches in place of double crochets. 
• Skip 1 (sk-1) – skip 1 stitch 
• *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed

Gauge/Notes

Gauge: 

Body: using double crochet stitch: 18 stitches x 9 rows = 4 inches

It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your garment will fit. 

Notes: 

• Turning chain counts as a stitch throughout the main body portion of each panel and sleeve. 
• Any changes to width in the front or back panels needs to be done in odd numbers. 
• Modifications to length on the front panel should be made before the decreases to angle it for the “collar” area. 
• You can also substitute the foundation chain and first row of each panel for a foundation double crochet if you would prefer, just make sure you still have the proper stitch count. 

Pattern Instructions 

Back panel (Make One):

Body: 

Foundation: Chain 111, 117, 123, 129, 135, 141. Turn. 

Row 1: 1 DC in the 3rd chain from the hook, 1 DC in each remaining stitch. Turn. (109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139 stitches) 

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch. Turn. (109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139 stitches) 

Row 3: Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the last stitch. Turn. (109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139 stitches) 

Row 4: Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below. Turn. (109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139 stitches) 

Row 5 – 64: Repeat row 4. (109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139 stitches) 

SIZE XS ONLY STOP AT ROW 60

SIZE 2X ADD AN ADDITIONAL 2 ROWS, TOTAL OF 66 ROWS. 

All sizes, break yarn and tie off. 

Front panel (Make two):

Ch 51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81. Turn. 

Row 1: 1 DC in the 3rd chain from the hook, 1 DC in each remaining stitch. Turn. (49, 55, 61, 67, 73, 79 stitches) 

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch. Turn. (49, 55, 61, 67, 73, 79 stitches) 

Row 3: Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the last stitch. Turn.(49, 55, 61, 67, 73, 79 stitches) 

Row 4: Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below. Turn. (49, 55, 61, 67, 73, 79 stitches) 

Row 5 – 55: Repeat row 4. (49, 55, 61, 67, 73, 79 stitches) 

SIZE XS ONLY STOP AT ROW 51

SIZE 2X ADD AN ADDITIONAL 2 ROWS, TOTAL OF 57 ROWS. 

Begin decreases:

Row 56 (52, 58): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* second to last stitch of row, SKIP LAST STITCH of previous row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below.  (47, 53, 59, 65, 71, 77 stitches) 

Row 57-59 (53-55, 59-61): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below. Turn. (47, 53, 59, 65, 71, 77 stitches) 

Row 60 (56, 62): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* second to last stitch of row, SKIP LAST STITCH of previous row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below.  (45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75 stitches) 

Row 61 (57, 63): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below. Turn. (45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75 stitches) 

Row 62 (58, 64): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* second to last stitch of row, SKIP LAST STITCH of previous row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below.  (43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73 stitches) 

Row 63 (59, 65): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below. Turn. (43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73 stitches) 

Row 64 (60, 66): Ch 3, skip next stitch, 1 DC. *Ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch*, repeat *…* second to last stitch of row, SKIP LAST STITCH of previous row, ending with a DC in the top of the second stitch of the turning chain from the row below.  (41, 47, 53, 59, 65, 71 stitches) 

All sizes, break yarn and tie off. 

Seaming/Construction:

For construction of the, it’s easiest to lay out the back panel with the right side facing up. Then placing “right sides” together, place the front panels on top of the back panel. Line up the edges of the front panel with the side edge of the back panel and pin the top/shoulder seams together. Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the front and back panels together along the top short edges. I personally prefer a slip stitch seam because it feels more secure, but you could use a mattress stitch, whip stitch, or zig-zag stitch, whatever you prefer. 

To seam the sides, fold the front panels down to align with the back panel, with the side edges together, “WRONG sides” together. This seaming method is a bit tricky, but count in from the side edge 13 stitches (or however many stitches in will give you the desired fit based on your personal preference). I then used bobby pins and stitch markers to temporarily hold this “seam” so I could try it on and confirm it fit how I wanted it to.

Then carefully use a basic sewing stitch to work vertically up the rows, stitching the panels together along the 13th (or selected) stitch, all the way up the panel to your desired “armpit”/armhole depth – for me, this was approximately 40 rows up, because I wanted a large opening for comfort and mobility. This sewing method leaves the edges exposed on the outside edges of the panels in order to create the flowy feeling of the garment while allowing it to be cinched in with a belt or a button if desired. 

After all seaming is completed, move to “collar” section.

Collar: 

Join yarn at the bottom corner of the solid rows on the bottom of the front left panel (right side facing). Work around entire inner portion of cardigan front panels (and stitches on the back panel that may be in the space between where the front panels are joined) to the other bottom corner of the solid rows. 

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 SC in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that it allows adequate vertical stretch in the sweater body. Turn at the end of the row. 

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC in each stitch around. 

Pom-Pom Edging: 

Join yarn at the bottom corner of the side edge of one of the flaps from the seaming. 

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 SC in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that it allows adequate vertical stretch in the sweater body. Turn at the end of the row. 

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC in first stitch. *Ch 3, modified bobble, ch 3. Skip 3 stitches of the row below, 1 SC in 4th stitch.* Repeat *…* all the way around the edge of the side/”sleeve” edge. 

Repeat on the other side.  

Cut yarn, tie off! 

Additional Options: 

Add a button! I chose to add a button to mine around waist-level. You could also add multiple buttons, to create a more solid closure to wear this as a bathing suit coverup. 

I also chose to add a belt for extra cinching. To make a belt like I did:

Chain a length of your waist plus approximately 61 stitches. Turn.

1 SC in second chain from hook, 1 SC in each of the next 29 stitches, 1 HDC in next stitch, DC in each of the waist-measured stitches. When you have 30 stitches remaining (the other half of that extra 61 you added), 1HDC in next stitch, 1 SC in each stitch to end of chain. Tie off and weave in ends.

I then wove my belt through the side panels to bring it to the front. I chose to just go through and have the belt rest on top of the garment, but you could also weave it through the panels more to have a more gathered look.

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #notustopper! 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks! 

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Copyright © 2020 Abby Doan, Skeins and Stitches Co