Pattern Overview
This “ponchette” pattern is a quick and easy project to add to your wardrobe as we transition from summer to cooler temps of fall. I used a bulky weight cotton from WeCrochet, but you could use any bulky yarn that you prefer, a wool base would be excellent for adding additional winter wearability. I designed this project to be an easy layer to toss over a t-shirt (long or short sleeve depending on the temps where you are) or a dress, to get a little extra warmth for the cooler evenings. This project works up like a dream and uses basic stitches that showcase the gorgeous texture of the yarn.
It is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up or adjust the sizes of individual panels. You can also add additional decreases or make the panels longer very easily. You will need additional yarn if you make changes to the pattern, but it would definitely be simple to customize it for your desired size.
This pattern will be free here on the blog forever, but you can purchase a downloadable, ad-free PDF here.
Construction and Customization Notes
The ponchette is constructed in two panels (the front and back) and then seamed together at the shoulders. After seaming, there are two rounds of finishing stitches, and then you are good to go. It is very simple construction, which makes it ideal for beginners, or those looking for a quick and fun project.
I’ve included some ideas here for customizing this pattern to your body and ideal fit. It is easy to size up or down as a whole or to adjust the overall size of the ponchette. You could easily make it more of a full poncho by skipping many of the beginning decreases, and you could also make it more triangular by continuing to decrease the panel.
The finished dimensions are approximately 23 inches across the top (shoulder/neckline area) and approximately 14 inches long (from the neckline to the hem). This is just a loose stretch, rather than fully blocked.
If you choose to lengthen any of the panels or make them wider, you will need more yarn. If you do choose to substitute and use a different weight 5 yarn, just check your gauge and make sure the drape is looking good!
Supplies Needed
- 8 mm tunisinan crochet hook with ~ 24” cable (or size needed to meet gauge)
- Approximately 240 yards of bulky weight yarn
- I used WeCrochet Billow yarn in Comfrey – it is a super soft and pretty 100% cotton bulky weight yarn.
- You could also use any bulky weight yarn, as long as it has a nice drape and you are able to meet gauge. I would recommend a wool based yarn if you get cooler weather where you are.
- Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)
Stitches (*US Terms*)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Chain stitch (Ch)
- Single crochet (SC)
- Double crochet (DC)
- Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss) – this tutorial is excellent if you’ve never tried tunisian or just need a refresher – https://youtu.be/KsgJ8qLcIz8
- Tunisian simple stitch 2 together (tss2tog) – this decrease method creates a nice angle and edge, and is very simple – instead of inserting under just the next vertical bar like you would for a standard tss, you insert under the first bar, and the next bar, then draw up a loop through both of those bars/loops
- Yarn over (YO)
- Skip 1 (sk-1) – skip 1 stitch
- Foundation Single crochet
- *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed
Gauge/Notes
Gauge:
16 stitches x 8 rows = 4 inches in tunisian simple stitch
It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your garment will fit the way you want it to fit.
Notes:
- You can work a foundation chain and single crochet row instead of the foundation single crochet if you would prefer, just make sure you still have the proper stitch count.
- I seamed my piece together with what is technically the wrong side of the panels showing (I like the texture of the loops of the back of the panel a bit more for this project) but you can also seam it together so that the other side is showing. This depends on your personal preference.
Pattern Instructions
Back panel (Make One):
Foundation: Foundation single crochet 57 (or ch 58, turn, 1 sc in second chain from hook and every remaining chain) (57 stitches)
Row 1: Turn, draw up a loop in each stitch (tss), return pass (don’t forget to chain 1 at the end of each row/beginning of each return pass)
Row 2: tss2tog, 1 tss in each stitch to the last 3 stitches, tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 3: tss2tog, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 3 stitches; tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 4: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last 3 (one space, 1 stitch, and the last stitch), tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 5: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), tss in each space or stitch to last 3, tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 6: tss2tog, tss in each stitch to last 3 stitches, tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 7 – 9: Repeat rows 3 – 5.
Row 10 – 12: Repeat rows 3 – 5.
Row 13: tss in first stitch, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 2; tss in next stitch, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 14: tss in first stitch, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last stitch, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 15: tss in first stitch, tss in each space or stitch to end, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 16 – 18: repeat rows 13 -15.
Row 19: tss2tog, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 3 stitches; tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 20: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last 3 (one space, 1 stitch, and the last stitch), tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 21: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), tss in each space or stitch to last 3, tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 22 – 24: repeat rows 19 – 21.
At end of row 24, work a slip stitch bind off. Do NOT cut yarn.
After you complete the slip stitch bind off row, continue to work around the side edge of the panel. Work 12 sc, then 12 dc to the top corner, then work 1 dc into each fdsc stitch across. At the corner, begin to work back down the side of the panel, mirroring the other side, by working 12 dc, then 12 sc. This should bring you back to the beginning of the bind of row. Work 1 sc in each sl st across the bottom of the panel. Then sl st in the first two sc stitches up the side. Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Front panel (Make one):
Foundation: Foundation single crochet 51 (or ch 52, turn, 1 sc in second chain from hook and every remaining chain) (51 stitches)
Row 1: Turn, draw up a loop in each stitch (tss), return pass (don’t forget to chain 1 at the end of each row/beginning of each return pass)
Row 2: tss2tog, 1 tss in each stitch to the last 3 stitches, tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 3: tss2tog, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 3 stitches; tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 4: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last 3 (one space, 1 stitch, and the last stitch), tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 5: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), tss in each space or stitch to last 3, tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 6: tss2tog, tss2tog, tss in each stitch to last 5 stitches, tss2tog, tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 7 – 9: Repeat rows 3 – 5.
Row 10 – 12: Repeat rows 3 – 5.
Row 13: tss in first stitch, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 2; tss in next stitch, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 14: tss in first stitch, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last stitch, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 15: tss in first stitch, tss in each space or stitch to end, tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 16 – 18: repeat rows 13 -15.
Row 19: tss2tog, YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next*. Repeat *..* to last 3 stitches; tss2tog, tss in last stitch. Return pass. (Be careful to work through each YO and stitch on the return pass)
Row 20: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), YO, skip next stitch, *tss in the next YO space, YO, skip next stitch, tss in the next YO space*. Repeat *..* to last 3 (one space, 1 stitch, and the last stitch), tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 21: tss2tog (one stitch and one YO space), tss in each space or stitch to last 3, tss2tog (one space and one stitch), tss in last stitch. Return pass.
Row 22 – 24: repeat rows 19 – 21.
At end of row 24, work a slip stitch bind off. Do NOT cut yarn.
After you complete the slip stitch bind off row, continue to work around the side edge of the panel. Work 12 sc, then 12 dc to the top corner, then work 1 dc into each fdsc stitch across. At the corner, begin to work back down the side of the panel, mirroring the other side, by working 12 dc, then 12 sc. This should bring you back to the beginning of the bind of row. Work 1 sc in each sl st across the bottom of the panel. Then sl st in the first two sc stitches up the side. Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Seaming/Construction:
For construction of the, it’s easiest to lay out the back panel with the right side facing up. Then placing “right sides” together, place the front panels on top of the back panel. Line up the edges of the front panel with the side edge of the back panel and pin the top/shoulder seams together.
Mark/count in 10 stitches from the corner on each shoulder.
Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the front and back panels together along those 10 marked stitches on each “shoulder”/corner. I used a mattress stitch and worked it through the stitches twice to make it feel more secure, but you can use whichever seaming method you prefer.
After the shoulder seaming is completed, move to “edging” section.
Edging:
Join yarn with sl st to the edge of the panel. I joined my yarn a couple of stitches away from the shoulder seam, but you can join wherever you want on the outside edge of the piece. Work 1 sc in each stitch around the outer edge of the entire ponchette. This helps to create a nice smooth edge and give the piece a more finished look. You could do a decorative stitch here if you wanted to, but I chose to keep mine nice and simple.
After you complete the edging, move to “collar” section.
Collar:
Join yarn with sl st to the inside edge of the shoulder seamed area. Work 1 sl st into the top of each dc stitch that is still exposed from the top row of each panel. This helps to create a nice smooth edge, and helps to make the neckline area a bit sturdier. You could do a decorative stitch here if you wanted to, but I chose to keep mine nice and simple.
Weave in all of your ends and you’re finished!
If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #amethystponchette!
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Copyright © 2020 Abby Doan, Skeins and Stitches Co
