2020

Pattern Overview

This cardigan is made with the waistcoat stitch to give it a “knit” look! It is a relaxed, classic fitted sweater, with a cropped length. It is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up, or adjust the sizes of individual panels. I made it in a three color, color block pattern, but it could be easily created with only two colors, or without the “hearts” and ribbing accent color in only one main color. 

This pattern was originally published on the wonderful Joy of Motion crochet blog and you can still access it there as well!

This pattern will be free here on the blog forever, but you can purchase a downloadable, ad-free PDF here. 

Construction and Customization Notes

The sweater is constructed in four segments (the back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves). Each panel is started with bottom ribbing and then worked in rows (from the bottom of the panel up) to the correct length, and then they are seamed together. 

This pattern is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up, or adjust the sizes of individual panels. You could also lengthen it by repeating rows in any of the sections, but you will have the best luck if you add rows in the top alternate color section. It is currently graded for sizes XS through XL, with each size varying by about 1.5 inches in the panel widths. These are easily customizable if you want looser panels in the front, across the back, or looser fitting sleeves, just make sure that you add stitches in even numbers for the alternating heart accent rows to line up properly – adding 2 stitches in main body rows will add about one inch to the finished piece. If you want a size larger than XL (or just want a looser fit) you can add stitches super easily. 

I would check the fit of the sleeves as you work to make sure they will accommodate the fit you want for your arms! It is easy to add a few more increases at the end (after the last section of “hearts”) and get the perfect fit for upper arms! 

If you choose to lengthen any of the panels or make them wider, you will need more yarn. I would also note that it definitely needs to be a weight 5/bulky yarn, or a light weight 6 or the material will be too stiff and not fit comfortably. 

Be sure to “carry” the alternate color yarn behind the work when you work the “heart” rows. (see “Additional Notes” below for an image of this)

Supplies Needed

• 8 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge for ribbing)
• 10 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet body portion gauge)
• Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL 
• Approximately 700, 730, 875, 950, 1100 total yards of bulky weight yarn (weight 5) – I used Loops and Threads Charisma Tweed in colors Cream and Black, and Bernat Softee Chunky (which is technically a weight 6, but is more like a weight 5 in my opinion) in Black. You could use 1 or 2 colors, or even more if you chose, just make sure you have either the same proportions or the same total yardage.
  • I used 3 colors and you would need approximately this yardage for each color:
    • Color A: Black solid – 150, 160, 175, 200, 250 yards
    • Color B: Cream tweed – 275, 285, 350, 375, 425 yards 
    • Color C: Black tweed – 275, 285, 350, 375, 425 yards 
• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 

Stitches (*US Terms*)

• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Chain stitch (Ch) 
• Single crochet (SC)
• Single crochet back loop only (BLO)
• Double crochet (DC)
• Front post double crochet/back post double crochet (FPDC/BPDC)
• “Waistcoat stitch” (WS)- single crochet where each stitch is worked into the post of the stitch/row below it. There are lots of awesome tutorials on this stitch on the internet. It is very important that this stitch is worked loosely in order to be able to work into the center of the post! 
• Modified WS stitch – I have a short video clip on my youtube channel  here that illustrates how to work the modified waistcoat stitch (link https://youtu.be/2yzIGbCBT9c) 
• *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed

Gauge/Dimensions

Gauge: 

Ribbing: 8 rows of SC BLO = 4 inches (stretched)

Body: 9 stitches x 11 rows = 4 inches (waistcoat stitch – lightly stretched)

It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your sweater will fit. 

Additional Notes

Joining method: 

I join the alternate color in by drawing up a loop of the additive color, then pulling the base color loop very tight, then drawing up another loop of the first/continuing color and pulling the alternate color loop very tight. This allows both strands to remain attached, but the alternate color doesn’t show much.

Pattern Instructions 

Back panel (Make one):

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge), Turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across, Turn (5 stitches)

Row 3 – 35, 38, 41, 44, 47 : Repeat row 2. 

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook): 

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches) Turn. 

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. I used a slip stitch to join at the beginning of the row. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 2 & 3: Repeat row 1. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (17, 19, 20, 22, 23 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9 – 12: Using color B, Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row.Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 14 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (17, 19, 20, 22, 23 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31.

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 37: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Cut yarn and tie off. 

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sweater, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference! 

Front panel (Make two):

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge) turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across

Row 3 – 10, 13, 16, 19, 22: Repeat row 2. 

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook): 

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

Row 2 & 3: Repeat row 1. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6, 8, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5.

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9 – 12: Using color B, Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. 

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

Row 14 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6, 8, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31. 

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 37: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Cut yarn and tie off. 

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sweater, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference! 

Sleeve panel (Make two):

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge) turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across

Row 3 – 13, 16, 19, 22, 25: Repeat row 2. 

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook): *note* there are increases in stitch count at rows 14, 26, 39, 46, and 49

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation Row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

Row 2: Repeat row 1. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 WS in the corner space between turn and 1st stitch, 1 WS stitch in each remaining stitch (14, 17, 20, 23, 26 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. You can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6,10, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5.

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9: Using color B, Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

Row 10 – 12: Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

Row 14: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (16, 19, 22, 25, 28 stitches)

 Row 15 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (16, 19, 22, 25, 28 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

Row 27 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (8, 9, 11, 12, 14) stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31.

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 38: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

Row 39: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (18, 21, 24, 27, 30 stitches)

Row 40 – 45: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. (18, 21, 24, 27, 30 stitches)

Row 46: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row. (19, 22, 25, 28, 31 stitches)

Row 47 – 48: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across.  (19, 22, 25, 28, 31 stitches)

Row 49: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row. (20, 23, 26, 29, 32 stitches)

Row 50: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across.  (20, 23, 26, 29, 32 stitches)

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sleeves, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference! 

Construction:

For construction of the sweater, it’s easiest to lay out the back panel with the right side facing. Then placing “right sides” together, place the front panels on top of the back panel. Line up the edges of the front panel with the side edge of the back panel and pin the top/shoulder seams together. Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the front and back panels together along the short edges. I used a zig-zag stitch, but you could use any stitch you want that will create a nice flat seam. 

After sewing both front panels onto the back panel, lay out the new “U” shaped sweater body flat, with the outside/right side facing. Take the first sleeve, and lay it on top, right sides together. Make sure to line up the center of the sleeve (fold in half or count to find the middle) and the shoulder seam. Then use the same stitching method to create a nice flat seam. Repeat this with the other sleeve. Then fold it back down to look like the sweater shape, again with right sides together, and seam the length of the sleeve starting at the bottom of the wrist ribbing and stitching to the side seam. After seaming the sleeve, move down the side seam to the waist ribbing and tie off. Repeat this on the other side! 

After all seaming is completed, move to “collar” section. 

Collar: 

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Join yarn at the bottom corner of the ribbing on the bottom of the front left panel (right side facing). Work around entire inner portion of cardigan front panels to the other bottom corner of the bottom ribbing. 

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that it allows adequate vertical stretch in the sweater body. Turn at the end of the row. 

Row 2: Ch 2, work 1 FPDC in the first stitch, then 1 BPDC, alternate 1 FPDC, 1 BPDC in each stitch around the collar from row 1. Turn 

Row 3: Ch 2, work 1 BPDC around the BPDC from the row below, then 1 FPDC around the FPDC from the row below. Alternate 1 FPDC and 1 BPDC each stitch down the row, following the same pattern as the row below. (If you ended with a FPDC in the previous row, start row 3 with a FPDC; if you ended with a BPDC as I did, then start row 3 with a BPDC)

Cut yarn, tie off!
Weave in all of your ends, and you’re good to go! 

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #allheartscardi! 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks!