September 2020

Pattern Overview

This owlet crochet pattern is designed with simple stitches and shapes to create a cute and squishy creation. The Olly owlet is made to look semi-realistic, but still a bit cartoonish and simple because after all – it is supposed to be a decoration or a toy. 

Using simple stitches and shapes makes this owlet a great beginner-friendly project. 

This pattern will be free here on the blog forever, but you can purchase a downloadable, ad-free PDF here. 

Construction and Customization Notes

You could easily make this owl in a single color. The wings and the eyebrows are done with a “tweed” yarn to make the owlet look a bit more textured. It could easily be made with a single color, or all in tweed. It all depends on what you want your finished owlet to look like. 

Supplies Needed

• 5mm crochet hook
• 3.75mm crochet hook 
• Approximately 50 yards of super bulky weight yarn (weight 6)
  • I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in Fisherman and Oatmeal. 
• Approximately 2 yards of worsted or DK weight yarn (for the beak)
  • I used just a tiny scrap bit of Caron Simply Soft in Taupe
• 2 safety eyes (I used 10mm eyes with brown rings but you could use gold rings, or solid black)
• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 

Stitches (*US Terms*)

• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Chain stitch (Ch) 
• Single crochet (sc)
• Inc – two single crochet in one stitch
• SC2tog – single crochet two stitches together
• *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed

Gauge/Notes

Gauge: 

Gauge is not essential for this pattern – just make sure that it is tight enough that no stuffing will escape.   

Notes: 

• This piece is worked in joined rounds, but you could also work in continuous rounds and just use a stitch marker.  
• I chose to work my body directly into the stitches at the base of the owlet head, but you could also start the body the same way as the head and instead attach it at the end. 

Pattern Instructions 

Head: (using 5mm hook and fisherman colorway)

Into a magic circle: sc 8 into the center of the magic circle. Join with sl st. (8 stitches)

Round 1: Ch 1, 2 sc into each stitch around, join with sl st. (16 stitches)

Round 2 & 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st. (16 stitches)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, repeat around (sc2tog 8 times), join with sl st. (8 stitches)

At this point, the head is basically complete. If you are going to work the body separately, you can break the yarn and tie it off here. Also at this point, I would brush or otherwise texturize the yarn – a dog de-shedding brush works for this, but the hook side of velcro is also a great texturizing material. 

Insert your safety eyes at this point – in the 3rd row or wherever you see fit. I also added the eyebrows at this point. The eyebrows are just loops tied in the tweed yarn, but you can do whatever you see fit. This is also where I would make the beak and attach it. Then I stuff the head to ensure consistent stuffing. 

Beak (using 3.75 mm hook and worsted weight):

Row 1: Leaving a long tail, ch 3, turn, sl st in the next 2 stitches. Tie off, cut yarn, but leave a long tail to sew it onto the face. Attach to the head just below and between the eyes, or wherever you like. 

Body (using 5mm hook and fisherman colorway):

I started by working into the existing stitches of the head, but you could also start with a magic circle. 

Round 1: Ch 1, sc 8 – 1 in each stitch around the base of the head, join with sl st. (8 stitches) 

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st. (16 stitches)

Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next. Repeat inc (2sc in one stitch), 1 sc around, join with sl st. (24 stitches)

Round 4 – 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st. (24 stitches). 

Round 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in next, repeat around (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next), join with sl st (16 stitches)

Round 8 & 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with sl st. (16 stitches). 

Add stuffing here. I like to get pretty close to fully stuffing, but not so much that it is difficult to work with. 

Round 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat to end, join with sl st (12 stitches). 

Add some more stuffing. 

Round 11: Ch 1, sc2tog around. (6 stitches). 

Stuff the rest of the way. 

Break yarn and tie off. Leave a very long tail for sewing the bottom closed – and sew up the bottom. If you want the owlet to stand on it’s own, you could add a little bag of weights here before you finish sewing it closed. 

Wing (Make two: using 5mm hook and oatmeal/tweed colorway):

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc 6. 

Row 2: Ch 1, 2sc in the first, 1 sc in each stitch down the row, turn. 

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch. 

Row 4: Ch 1, 2sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch to second to last stitch, 2sc in last stitch. Turn. 

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch. Turn. 

Row 6 – 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in each stitch to last 2, sc2tog. Turn. 

At the end of row 8, there should be 2 stitches remaining. 

Finishing: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch or row end around the side edge to the top corner, sl st in the corner stitch. Tie off. Join yarn at the other bottom corner and work up the opposite side. 

Seaming/Construction:

If you didn’t work the body directly off the head stitches, this is the time to seam it together. After the head and body are connected, then attach the wings to the body and the neck seam. After you work across the top of the wing, I also placed a couple of stitches throughout the wing to tack it down. 

Weave in all of your ends and you’re finished! 

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #ollyowlet!

 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks!

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