April 2020
Pattern Overview
Named for my best friend, Jillie, who was the inspiration and recipient of the trial version of this sweater, the Velvet Jillie Cardi is a great beginner project for those who want to try making their first garment but are intimidated by the usual tiny stitches and tinier yarn! Designed to be cozy and oversized, this cardigan works up like a dream and uses basic stitches to embrace and enhance the texture of the yarn.
It is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up or adjust the sizes of individual panels. I made it in one solid color, but you could definitely use 2 different colors for a unique sort of “marled” look. I love the way the velvet works up with two strands held together basically just looking like a single strand because of the fuzzy texture and I would recommend using the suggested yarn or a similarly textured yarn. The large hook creates a really drapey finished product that is super quick and easy to work up, and will have you wrapped up in cozy goodness in no time!
The pattern will be available here for free forever, but you can buy the AD-FREE, COLOR-CODED, downloadable PDF for just $4 on Ravelry here!
Construction and Customization Notes
The sweater is constructed in four segments (the back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves). Each panel is started with bottom ribbing and then worked in rows (from the bottom of the panel up) to the correct length, and then they are seamed together. This technique makes the pattern easily customizable and super beginner-friendly.
I’ve included some ideas here for customizing this pattern to your body and ideal fit. It is easy to size up or down as a whole or to adjust the individual panel sizes based on where you want the changes. You could also lengthen it by repeating rows in any of the sections, but you will have the best luck if you add rows in the “solid” rows (where there are no skipped stitches). It is currently graded for sizes XS through 4XL, with the sizes being grouped XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X, and with the finished size of each varying by about 1.75 inches in each of the panel widths. These are easily customizable if you want looser panels in the front, across the back, or looser fitting sleeves, just make sure that you add stitches in odd numbers for the ch-1 spaces to line up and look right. If you want a size larger than 4X (or just want a looser fit) you can size up super easily by simply adding stitches at the beginning or throughout the panel(s) depending on where you want a change.
I would check the fit of the sleeves as you work to make sure they will accommodate the fit you want for your arms! It is easy to add a few more increases at the end (after the last section of chain 1 spaces) and get the perfect fit for upper arms!
If you choose to lengthen any of the panels or make them wider, you will need more yarn. If you do choose to substitute and not use the recommended Vel-Luxe yarn or a velvet style yarn, make sure that it has plenty of drape and will still lay nicely with 2 strands held together. This pattern could also probably be used with a standard weight 6 yarn, but it has not been tested with that yarn so I cannot recommend yardage or any particular yarn type.
Supplies Needed
- 12 mm crochet hook (or size needed to meet gauge)
- Sizes XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X
- Approximately 1200, 1400, 1700, 1900 total yards of worsted weight yarn (weight 4) – I used Lion Brand “Vel-Luxe” Yarn in Charcoal. The sample is done all in one color, but you could also use 2 colors to create a “marled” or “heathered” effect, just make sure you have the same total yardage.
- If you are using Vel-Luxe, you’ll need approximately 5, 6, 7, 8 total balls.
- Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)
Stitches (*US Terms*)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Chain stitch (Ch)
- Single crochet (SC)
- Single crochet back loop only (BLO)
- Double crochet (DC)
- Front post double crochet/back post double crochet (FPDC/BPDC)
- *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed
Gauge/Notes
Gauge:
Body: using double crochet stitch: 7 stitches x 5 rows = 4 inches
It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your sweater will fit.
Notes:
- Turning chain counts as a stitch throughout the main body portion of each panel and sleeve.
- Any changes to width need to be done in odd numbers.
- In the “body” portion of each panel, the ends of each row with “ch-1 spaces” should have 2 DC before the first skipped stitch. So each row should go “Ch 2, 1 DC” then follow the pattern, and at the end, the pattern should end on the second to last stitch (working a DC there) and then working a DC into the last stitch, which is the turning chain from the previous row.
Pattern Instructions
Back panel:
Ribbing:
Foundation: Ch 6, turn
Row 1: 1 SC in 2nd chain from hook and 1 SC in each chain down the row, turn (5 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch, turn,
Row 3 – 35, 37, 41, 43 : Repeat row 2 to the row count listed for your size or your personal desired length
Body:
Row 1: Ch 2, turn ribbing so you are working down the length of it. Place 1 DC in the end of each row — or evenly space the same number of stitches as rows listed above. (35, 37, 41, 43 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 5 & 6: Repeat rows 3 & 4
Row 7 – 10: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 11: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 12: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 13 & 14: Repeat rows 11 & 12
Row 15 – 18: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch
Row 19: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 20: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 21 & 22: Repeat rows 19 & 20
Row 23 – 26: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch.
SIZE XS/S ONLY SKIP ROW 26 OF EACH PANEL
SIZE 3X/4X REPEAT ROW 26 1 MORE TIME – TOTAL ROW COUNT 27 FOR FRONT AND BACK PANELS
Front panel (Make two):
Ribbing:
Foundation: Ch 6, turn
Row 1: 1 SC in 2nd chain from hook and 1 SC in each chain down the row, turn (5 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch, turn,
Row 3 – 17, 19, 21, 23: Repeat row 2 to row count or desired length
Main Body Portion:
Row 1: Ch 2, turn ribbing so you are working down the length of it. Place 1 DC in the end of each row.
Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 3, skip first stitch, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 5 & 6: repeat rows 3 & 4
Row 7 – 10: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 11: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 12: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 13 & 14: Repeat rows 11 & 12
Row 15 – 18: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 19: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 20: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 21 & 22: Repeat rows 19 & 20
Row 23-26: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch. Cut yarn and tie off.
SIZE XS/S ONLY SKIP ROW 26 OF EACH PANEL
SIZE 3X/4X REPEAT ROW 26 1 MORE TIME – TOTAL ROW COUNT 27 FOR FRONT AND BACK PANELS
Sleeve panel (Make two):
Ribbing:
Foundation: Ch 6, turn
Row 1: 1 SC in 2nd chain from hook and 1 SC in each chain down the row, turn (5 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch, turn,
Row 3 – 17, 19, 21, 23: Repeat row 2 to row count or desired length
Main Body Portion:
*note* there is an increase in the first row of the body portion of each sleeve. You will be adding 2 stitches more than the row count of the sleeve ribbing – I recommend adding 1 extra stitch at each end of the first row.
Row 1: Ch 2, turn ribbing so you are working down the length of it. Evenly place 19, 21, 23, 25 stitches down the length of the ribbing – I place 1 stitch in each row end and find that 1 extra stitch at each end of the ribbing works the best for this increase (19, 21, 23, 25 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 5 & 6: Repeat rows 3 & 4
Row 7 – 10: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
Row 11: Ch 2, 1 DC in next stitch, *ch 1, sk-1, 1 DC in next stitch* repeat *…* to second to last stitch of row, 1 DC in the last stitch/top of turning chain, turn
Row 12: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch or Ch-1 space to end of row, turn
Row 13 & 14: Repeat row 11 & 12
Row 15 – 19: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch, turn
SIZE XS/S ONLY SKIP ROW 19 OF EACH SLEEVE
SIZE 3X/4X REPEAT ROW 19 1 MORE TIME – TOTAL ROW COUNT 20 FOR EACH SLEEVE
Seaming/Construction:
For construction of the sweater, it’s easiest to lay out the back panel with the right side facing up. Then placing “right sides” together, place the front panels on top of the back panel. Line up the edges of the front panel with the side edge of the back panel and pin the top/shoulder seams together. Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the front and back panels together along the top short edges. I personally prefer a slip stitch seam because it feels more secure, but you could use a mattress stitch, whip stitch, or zig-zag stitch, whatever you prefer.
After sewing both front panels onto the back panel, lay out the new “U” shaped sweater body flat, with the outside/right side facing up. Take the first sleeve, and lay it on top, right sides together. Make sure to line up the center of the sleeve (fold in half or count to find the middle) and the shoulder seam. Then use the same stitching method to create a nice flat seam. Repeat this with the other sleeve. Then fold it back down to look like the sweater shape, again with right sides together, and seam the length of the sleeve starting at the bottom of the wrist ribbing and stitching to the side seam. After seaming the sleeve, move down the side seam to the waist ribbing and tie off. Repeat this on the other side! If you need a little extra room in the upper arm portion of the sleeve, you can use a single crochet in place of the slip stitch at the “corner” of the armpit and body join.
After all seaming is completed, move to “collar” section.
Collar:
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the ribbing on the bottom of the front left panel (right side facing). Work around entire inner portion of cardigan front panels (and stitch(es) on the back panel that may be in the space between where the front panels are joined) to the other bottom corner of the bottom ribbing.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that it allows adequate vertical stretch in the sweater body. Turn at the end of the row.
Row 2: Ch 2, work 1 FPDC in the first stitch, then 1 BPDC, alternate 1 FPDC, 1 BPDC in each stitch around the collar from row 1. Turn
Row 3: Ch 2, work 1 BPDC around the BPDC from the row below, then 1 FPDC around the FPDC from the row below. Alternate 1 FPDC and 1 BPDC each stitch down the row, following the same pattern as the row below. (If you ended with a FPDC in the previous row, start row 3 with a FPDC; if you ended with a BPDC as I did, then start row 3 with a BPDC.
Cut yarn, tie off!
Weave in all of your ends, and you’re good to go!
If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #velvetjilliecardi!
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