12/20/2024

December 2019

This pattern is called the Atlantic Shore wrap because the transitions and melding of the greens, blues, and gray remind me of a winter day on the beach on the Atlantic coast. The beach is one of my favorite places, and anything that reminds me of the beach brings with it a feeling of peace, happiness, and general comfort; basically a perfect description of this mega-cozy and squishy wrap!

Pattern Overview

This wrap is similar to a standard triangle-style wrap, can be styled in a couple different ways. I’ve used it as a shawl or wrap, but also as a fun kerchief-style scarf around my neck. Using simple double crochet stitches, with a few modifications, this wrap works up quickly, easily, and doesn’t use too much yarn! This wrap is super soft and cozy, with a chunky yarn adding squish, but the “open weave” sections keeping it from feeling too heavy or suffocating. It can easily be customized to have a more or less open weave pattern, and can always be made longer or wider based on personal preference.

Construction/customization notes

This pattern is constructed a bit differently from a standard triangular wrap or shawl. I used a sequence of increase stitches on only one side of the work to create that triangular shape in a more customizable way. I love the way that this piece builds and allows you to create whatever “curve” or “triangle” depth you want. I wanted a sort of curved triangle, but it could be easily made “pointy-er” or into more of a trapezoid. 

If you are going to change the shape, just remember that all increases and decreases should be made on the same “side” of the piece (even numbered rows). Also remember that any increases should be mirrored in decreases if you want the traditional triangular look. 

I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! Obviously the yarn quantity suggested below is for the pattern as written, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn. 

Supplies Needed

  • 11.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to achieve a loose and drapey finished “fabric”)
  • Approx. 280 yards chunky/super bulky/weight 6 yarn (I used Loops and Threads Copenhagen, but you could use any chunky/weight 6 yarn, and Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick would be a great option) 
  • Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 
  • Stitch marker (optional, used for marking increase side initially)

Stitches (*US Terms*)

  • Half double crochet (hdc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Chain stitch (ch) 
  • Stitches (sts)
  • Repeat stitches/steps in between * * as noted (*…*)

Gauge/Dimensions

Gauge: 8 stitches (half double crochets) x 5 rows (half double crochets) = 4 inches

Finished dimensions (worn/relaxed): approx 19in (rows height – at longest point of triangle) x70in (top edge length) 

Pattern Instructions: 

NOTE: TURNING CHAIN COUNTS AS A STITCH

Foundation Chain: Ch 3, turn. 

Row 1: 1 hdc into 3rd stitch from hook. Turn. 

Row 2: Ch 2,  work 1 hdc into the top of the 1st stitch, 1 hdc into top of turning chain Turn. 

Row 3: Ch 2, work 1 hdc into each stitch across. Turn. 

Row 4: Ch 2, work 2 hdc into in the first stitch (increase), 1 hdc into each stitch remaining – place stitch marker in last stitch to track increase rows. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hdc into first ch 1 space, 1 hdc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. 

Row 7 – 22: Repeat rows 5 and 6. Ending with “solid” hdc row (row 6). You should have 9 rows of no ch 1 skips alternating with the rows with the ch 1 sk 1 spaces. 

Row 23: Ch 3, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 24: Ch 2, 1 hdc in first ch 1 space, ch 1, hdc into same space, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into ch 1 space*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (increase row)

Row 25: Ch 2, 1 hdc into first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into ch 1 space*, Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 26 – 40: Repeat rows 24 and 25, ending with the row 25 (non-increase row). 

Begin decreasing along same side as increases, to create a mirror image of the triangle side. 

Row 41: Ch 2, 1 hdc into first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into ch 1 space*, Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 42: Ch 2, skip 1st ch 1 space and first stitch, 1 hdc into next chain space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into next ch 1 space*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (decrease row)

Row 43: Ch 2, 1 hdc into first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into ch 1 space*, Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 44: Ch 2, skip 1st ch 1 space and first stitch, 1 hdc into next chain space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into next ch 1 space*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row (skip the last ch 1 space and instead put that stitch into the top of the turning chain. Turn. (decrease row)

Row 45: Ch 2, 1 hdc into first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into ch 1 space*, Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 46 – 57: Repeat rows 44 and 45. Ending with row 45 (the non-decrease row)

Row 58: Ch 2, skip first ch 1 space, 1 hdc into first stitch, 1 hdc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 59: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 hdc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last hdc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 60 – 77: Repeat rows 127 and 128, ending with a ch spaces row. 

Row 78: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 1 hdc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn

Row 79: Ch 2, 1 hdc into each stitch, except last 2, hdc2tog. Turn

Row 80: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in last stitch Turn. 

Row 81: Ch 2, hdc2tog. Turn.

Row 82: Ch 2, hdc2tog. Tie off.  

You’re finished! 

I chose to add 2 short tassels with the little bit of yarn I had leftover, but you could skip them or add longer tassels with extra or coordinating yarn! You could also work a row of single crochet stitches across the top edge, add a row of single crochet around the “triangle side” or spice it up with whatever edging you want! Just remember to make sure you have plenty of extra when buying your yarn (I build a little extra into the yarn measurement of all my patterns to account for slight differences or inconsistency in gauge throughout the work, but not enough for large modifications like edging). 

I also chose not to block my piece, because I like the squish of it being relaxed but unblocked. The yarn I used is very drapey and soft without blocking, so I like the look and feel. You could absolutely block if you wanted to, and I would say that blocked measurements will be a few inches larger than the finished dimensions listed above, as the stitch pattern has quite a bit of stretch to it. 

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #atlanticshorewrap! 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks! 

** I do use affiliate links throughout my posts so if you place an order through the links in this post I may receive a small compensation from the company linked. This is at no cost to you, and I do always legitimately endorse the companies or products shared in these links. Thanks for your understanding as these links provide essential support that allows this blog to continue.**

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