Pattern Overview

This “kerchief” style wrap, can be styled in a couple different ways. I’ve used it as a shawl or wrap, but also as a fun kerchief-style scarf around my neck. Using simple double crochet stitches, with a few modifications, this wrap works up quickly, easily, and doesn’t use too much yarn! It gets its name from the Norwegian word “koselig” which means something similar to the Danish “hygge” – basically a dedication to coziness and comfort. This wrap evokes that feeling without being too heavy. It can easily be customized to have a more or less open weave pattern, and can always be made longer or wider based on personal preference. 

The pattern will be available here on the blog for free forever, but you can purchase the printable, AD-FREE PDF of this pattern from Ravelry for just $3.

Construction/customization notes

This pattern is constructed a bit differently from a standard triangular wrap or shawl. I used a sequence of increase stitches on only one side of the work to create that triangular shape in a more customizable way. I love the way that this piece builds and allows you to create whatever “curve” or “triangle” depth you want. I wanted a sort of curved triangle, but it could be easily made “pointy-er” or into more of a trapezoid. 

If you are going to change the shape, just remember that all increases and decreases should be made on the same “side” of the piece. Also remember that any increases should be mirrored in decreases if you want the traditional triangular look. 

I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so post using #koseligkerchief and tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! Obviously the yarn quantity suggested below is for the pattern as written, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn. 

Supplies Needed

• 5.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to achieve a loose and drapey finished “fabric”) – I use my Boye hook all the time and love it.
• Approx. 500 yards DK/weight 3 yarn (I used Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend – but you could use any DK/weight 3 yarn, just make sure it has good drape to it – the fibers being too stiff will make your finished wrap stiffer and can change the way it looks) you could also use a light worsted weight – the comfy cotton blend is a heavier weight 3 in my opinion.
• Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends) 
• Stitch marker (optional, used for marking increase side initially)

Stitches (*US Terms*)

• Double crochet (dc)
• Single crochet (sc) – optional, used in edging
• Picot stitch – optional, used in edging (I used a sc 4, 3 chain picot, sc 4 repeating pattern for my edging along the angled side)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Chain stitch (ch) 
• Stitches (sts)
• Repeat stitches/steps in between * * as noted (*…*)

Gauge/Dimensions

Gauge: 18 stitches (double crochets) x 8 rows (treble crochets) = 4 inches

Finished dimensions (worn/relaxed): approx 19in (rows height – at longest point of triangle) x 70in (top edge length) 

Pattern Instructions: 

NOTE: TURNING CHAIN COUNTS AS A STITCH

Foundation Chain: Ch 3, turn. 

Row 1: 1 dc into 3rd stitch from hook. Turn. 

Row 2: Ch 2,  work 1 dc into the top of the 1st stitch, 1 dc into top of turning chain Turn. 

Row 3: Ch 2, work 1 dc into each stitch across. Turn. 

Row 4: Ch 2, work 2 dc into in the first stitch (increase), 1 dc into each stitch remaining – place stitch marker in last stitch to track increase rows. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 6: Ch 2, 2 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. 

Row 7 – 22: Repeat rows 5 and 6. Ending with “solid” dc row (row 6). You should have **9**rows of no ch 1 skips alternating with the rows with the ch 1 sk 1 spaces. 

Row 23: Ch 3, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 24: Ch 2, 1 dc in first ch 1 space, ch 1, dc into same space, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into ch 1 space*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (increase row)

Row 25: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into ch 1 space*, Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. 

Row 26 – 43: Repeat rows 24 and 25, ending with the row 25 (non-increase row). 

Row 44: Ch 2, 2 dc into first stitch, 1 dc into each remaining stitch or ch 1 space across. (increase row)

Row 45: Ch 3, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 46: Ch 2, 2 dc into first stitch, 1 dc into each remaining stitch or ch 1 space across. (increase row)

Row 47 – 52: Repeat rows 45 and 46, ending with a solid row. 

Row 53: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 54:  Ch 2, 1 dc in first ch 1 space, ch 1, dc into same space, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into ch 1 space*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (increase row)

Row 55 – 72: Repeat rows 53 and 54. 

Row 73: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 74: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, ch 1, dc into same stitch, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (increase row)

Row 75: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn

Begin decreasing along same side as increases, to create a mirror image of the triangle side. 

Row 76: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (decrease row)

Row 77: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 78: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (decrease row)

Row 79: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space,  *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch* Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 80 – 97: Repeat rows 78 and 79

Row 98: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 99: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 100 – 105: Repeat rows 98 and 99, ending on solid row. 

Row 106: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn. (decrease row)

Row 107: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space,  *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch* Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 108 – 126: Repeat rows 106 and 107

Row 127: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 128: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc into next stitch, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc into next stitch*  Repeat *…* to end of row – ending with the last dc in the turning chain of the previous row. Turn.

Row 129 – 144: Repeat rows 127 and 128, ending with a ch spaces row. 

Row 145: Ch 2, 1 dc into first ch 1 space, 1 dc into each stitch or ch 1 space across. Turn

Row 146: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc2tog. Turn. 

Row 147: Ch 2, dc2tog. Tie off. 

Optional edging instructions are below! 

Edging

This section is totally optional. I decided to add it because I like the extra shape it gives to the kerchief and the way it finishes the look, but if you would rather skip it, feel free! You can also add additional rows if you want to add some length, but I used the single crochet stitch and the picot stitch for the 2 different types of edging. Along the “flat” top edge of the kerchief, I used just a simple single crochet stitch, to create a nice finished edge. Around the “point” or triangular side, I did a picot stitch variation with 4 single crochet stitches between each picot “nub” and did a 3 chain picot so it feels full and gives an almost “mini-pom” style edging along the triangular side of the kerchief. You could do single crochet stitches all the way around the entire piece, or even do a half double or double crochet row instead. It is all personal preference! 

If you did additional customization, you may want to do a different number of repeats, or change the number of stitches between each picot “nub”. 

I chose not to block my piece, because i like the squish of it being relaxed but unblocked. The yarn I used is very drapey and soft without blocking, so I like the look and feel. You could absolutely block if you wanted to, and I would say that blocked measurements will be a few inches larger than the finished dimensions listed above, as the stitch pattern has quite a bit of stretch to it. 

I also made a second version in a slightly lighter DK yarn and this bright pink color!

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #koseligkerchief. 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks! 

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